Not abandoned, just stuff going on behind the scenes

So there has been a bit of radio silence here of late, and for that I apologize. I have spent the last few weeks reassessing everything, and trying to figure out where things fit in the newly reorganized priorities list, now that our first baby is on its way.

Luckily for those that are keeping tabs on this site, RidgeRunner Tiny Houses is not dead, it is just moving a bit slower these days. I am working on figuring out exactly what I am going to put on the land, and how to pay for it, along with everything else. I have some options available to me, I just have to decide which is the best one.

Any building on the property will have to wait until after I get the land cleared, which will not be completed until November. The local volunteer fire department is going to use the remains of the mobile home that is on the property as a practice structure, but not until sometime after the first of November when the burn ban is lifted.

So, like the tortoise, slow and steady wins the race.

Slow and steady wins the race
Slow and steady wins the race

Realistic Expectations

So this last month or so has been a bit of an eye opener for me, in more ways than one. I bought some land on which to build a production workshop for the tiny house business, I returned from my work assignment in DC, and I found out that I will be a new dad in March. One of the things that it put into perspective is the concept of ensuring I have realistic expectations on how much time I have available to allot to all of the varied demands on my time, as opposed to setting timelines to accomplish things in an arbitrary manner.

New Baby on the Way!
New Baby on the Way!

To start with, family comes first, and now that we are adding to the family, there are a slew of additional time requirements that need to be dealt with. Doctor’s appointments, taking care of my wife while she deals with the first trimester of changes to her body, making sure all of the things around the house get done, and figuring out some of the changes that need to be made to accommodate the new tiny one.

Second, the day job has greater emphasis now, as the health insurance that it pays for is a godsend with all of the doctor’s appointments. Not to mention, I have switched jobs at work, no longer am I a Program Manager responsible for two programs within the energy division, but am now back to using the degree I just finished paying for, working as an architect. (This is a good change, if you were wondering). There has been an unusual amount of travel involved in the last few weeks, but that is an anomaly rather than a new norm.

Third, there is RidgeRunner Tiny Homes, and finalizing what it takes to get it officially launched and producing income. With the time constraints of the first two items above, the remainder left for the business is fairly small, and there are many times where I just don’t have the mental energy to work on things after the toll of the day. But I am preservering, and getting bits and snippets done when I can.

For the workshop, I have contacted the utility company, getting them to remove the power lines from the dilapidated structure that needs to be removed. I have also met with the local volunteer fire department, and reached a verbal agreement with them to use the structure for a training burn. But this is where being realistic in my expectations comes in.

Did I mention it is hot?
Did I mention it is hot?

n case you were not aware, Alabama is in a hot-humid climate in the northern hemisphere. And, looking at the calendar, it is currently the first week in September, which is the end of the summer season down here. This means that the temps have been in the mid to upper 90’s with humidity to match that makes feel even hotter. This means that frankly, for firefighters that are suited up in all of their gear, it is miserable. As such, the earliest that they are willing to do their practice burn is in late October to early November, or after the heat breaks and coolness of fall moves in.

So, in being realistic in my expectations, I now see that the earliest that I could get the land ready to build my workshop is in November. Depending upon how the finances are looking, construction may need to be pushed off even later. Not to mention, that there will be ZERO chance of doing any building work for the first month or so after the baby is here.

In regards to the website, i have a new web designer that will be helping me, but he and his wife are dealing with a healthy baby boy born last weekend, so his time is limited as well. I also know that I still have one final tiny house systems blog post on heating systems to get finished, and I promise that it will be published before too long. I just am not sure when at the moment. Until then, feel free to read through my other Tiny House Systems posts.

In regards to the downloadable designs, this is where I need to focus my energies, as the sooner I get designs ready, the sooner I can start offering them for sale.

So, I need to stop writing this blog post, and get back to work!

Busyness away from the business

So the last two weeks have been a whirlwind of doctor’s appointments, travel with work getting settled back into the swing of things at work, and figuring out the dynamics of the new position at work. Coming to terms with the prospect of being a first time father, and in my spare moments (of which there have been few) trying to figure out how this will affect the business.

But as I figure it out, I will fill everyone in on the results. Now, company has arrived, so time to get away from the computer!

News!

So there’s been a bit of radio silence here on the blog, but it has been for a very good reason! We have discovered that we are expecting our first child in March of next year! All of the doctors appointments and the like have eaten into the time that would otherwise be spent working on the business, however this does not mean that I am going to let the business wither away. Quite the contrary! This news gives me even more of a reason to do what it takes to make the business succeed, and it will allow me to work from home and gain the benefits of being around as our child grows up!

Time Management

With so much on my plate at the moment: getting unpacked and re-situated at home after being gone for 6 months due to work, starting the process of getting the new land prepped for building a shop, and taking care of deferred maintenance at our house (see above: gone for 6 months), blogging has sadly been pushed lower on the priority list than expected. This means that another Friday has arrived and my blog post on Tiny House Heating Systems is still not finished and ready for publication.

This brings up the issue of time management. I like many of you have many competing items that want my full attention. Work, wife, cats, house, business, groceries, family, friends, hobbies, etc.  With so many things, it is inevitable that some don’t get the attention that they deserve. One of the ways that I cope with this is by prioritizing them based upon the expected results of not completing them, or as I call it, the fear method. Beyond this, I then adjust the priority based upon preference, i.e. what is more important to me, with a tweak for what is most fun. Unfortunately, as shown above the mundane, gotta-get-this-done,really doesn’t need to be put off stuff is highest on the priority list, so some of the fun stuff like putting together information blog posts gets delayed.

So, until I get this post finished, feel free to read over the other tiny home systems blog posts and stay tuned!

Back home…

Finally HOME!

For those who were not aware, my day job had me spending the last 6 months working in Washington D.C. However, I am now back home in Huntsville, getting unpacked, and figuring out what needs to be done, figuring out how, and when I can get it accomplished.

The pond towards the rear of the property
The pond towards the rear of the property (taken before the grass grew up)

I spent a while this afternoon poking around the land that I bought out in the county south of Huntsville, figuring out what I need to do to get it in shape to use for building a shop. First order of business is to get the land bush hogged, as the land has not been tended in over a year, resulting in the grass (and small trees) being about waist high. This will make it easier to work out there, not to mention less likely to get ticks, chiggers, or chomped on by an errant snake.

Next will be to deal with the existing, trashed out and falling down mobile home. It is so far gone that it just needs to be removed. Doing so is a bit cumbersome. Although the property is in the county, it does not mean that I can do anything I want (though there are a LOT less restrictions than in the city). In order of the steps I need to take to get it accomplished:

1 – Have the electric and cable physically removed from the structure, and have a temporary construction pole installed on the land. This is needed prior to demolition, and is actually a requirement for pulling a Demolition Permit with the county.

2 – Pull a Demolition Permit with the county. Like I alluded to above, there are still hoops to jump through in Madison County, AL, mostly because they are a more populated and prosperous county and therefore have a County Building Department and Codes enforcement. I could have purchased further out in a neighboring county that doesn’t have a building department and codes, but the greater distance would negate any perceived advantages.

3 – Have the mobile home torn down or burned down. I mentioned burned down, as I am investigating the possibility of donating the structure to the local volunteer fire department to practice on. This will most likely involve my signing an indemnification form that, yes I indemnify them from any potential lawsuit stemming from the fact that they will be setting my property on fire and putting it out.

4 – Have the remains hauled off. The ultimate goal is to have bare ground where the mobile home currently is. This will also be the point when I can call the building inspectors out to verify that the building is down and removed properly.

Once the above is completed, then I will hopefully be ready to put up a shop in which I can build tiny houses. (Of course, that will take a bit and be the subject of many other blog posts.)

For now, I am glad to just be back home. 🙂

From the Facebook Page

I just realized that this entry was only on the facebook page and did not make it here, so I am posting it now. Original post here

Just fielded a phone call from a prospective local customer. (Wasn’t expecting the call as I am at my day job, but luckily was on a lunch break, so if you are reading, sorry if I seemed out of sorts)

Unfortunately I had to explain that I was not yet at a point where I was able to sell a completed tiny home, as I have to first get a shop put up in which to build one to my standard of production ( i.e. built in a controlled environment to avoid issues of moisture penetration during construction). I had to state that it would most likely be in the spring before I could start offering them.  I can’t wait to get back to Huntsville next week and get the ball rolling.

I wish them the best in their search for a tiny home, applaud them for looking to support a local business first, and wish I could help sooner, but I refuse to sacrifice quality for expediency by saying that, “Yes, I can do it!” and having to build it exposed to the weather before I get the shop put up.

(Yes, it can be done outdoors with great results, however the potential drawbacks that can include warped / degraded materials, not to mention the potential for mold, results in increased professional liability from selling something with those risks, and in my mind they outweigh the expediency.)

So, as much as it pained me to turn away a prospective customer, I feel that I would be doing a disservice to both them and my business if I did not.

Tiny House Cooling Systems

This is the fourth post delving into the various systems in a tiny house. For the others, please see the links at the bottom of the introductory post, here.

Humans prefer to live within a certain range of temperatures. this is known as the human comfort zone, or alternatively, the thermal comfort zone. It is defined as the range of temperature, air movement, and humidity conditions that most people will find comfortable the majority of the time.  Mechanical Engineers that design heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems consider this so important to being able to do their work that they have developed ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 55 to be able quantify and specify what is required to ensure human comfort.  The below chart is known as a psychometric chart, or human thermal comfort chart. This chart actually was developed through observations of conditions and surveys of actual people as they experienced them.

Psychometric or Human Comfort Temperature and Humidity Chart
Psychometric or Human Comfort Temperature and Humidity Chart

Luckily, tiny home denizens don’t really need to know how to read the above chart, as all it does is show the typical comfort zone in relation to both air temperature and humidity, although the chart on the right does show some ways that you can extend the comfortable zone by using moving air, or soaking up heat from the sun.

Which leads us to the two types of cooling, passive vs. active.

Passive Cooling

Passive cooling is cooling which does not require a fan or pump to cool you down. In other words, open a window! Now, this seems simple and it is! But there are some things to consider that will improve the efficacy as well as overall comfort when you crack them open.

One of the first is to ensure that you have cross ventilation. What this means, is that you have operable windows on both sides of your house, in locations where air that comes in one side can come out the other. In a full size house, many times interior walls get in the way of this, but in a tiny house, there typically are not as many walls to get in the way. The below diagram shows the typical ventilation schemes from good to best.

Schemes for ventilation
Schemes for ventilation

If we refer back to the psychometric chart at the top, you will see that increasing ventilation allows you to still be comfortable at higher temps and humidity. And what better way to increase ventilation than through the use of fans!

Ceiling Fans

Explanation of Ceiling Fan Direction
Explanation of Ceiling Fan Direction

Ceiling fans seem to be the bane of modern interior decorators everywhere, and are the first thing torn out on all the design shows on HGTV and the DIY network.  But a ceiling fan, when used properly, can save you up to 40% in the summer and up to 15% in the winter.

In the summer, it does this by creating a draft, cooling you through wind chill. To maximize the effectiveness, you should use the faster speeds of your ceiling fan to move more air across your skin.

In the winter, you want to slow the speed of the fan down, while at the same time reversing the direction. There are a couple of factors that make this the best option. First, heat rises, and in a still house, the air will stratify, or layer itself, with the hottest air being at the ceiling of a space and the coldest at the floor, which happens to be closest to the inhabitants.

Turning on a ceiling fan will de-stratify the air, pushing the heat at the ceiling down into the room to where the people are. However, the same wind chill effect that is put to good use in the summer is detrimental in winter, as you want to stay warm, not cool off. This is why you use the lowest speed of your fan in winter. You merely want to circulate the air, not create a cooling draft. This is also why you reverse the direction of the fan, because by pushing the air up against the ceiling, it pushes the hot air down the sides of the room, while at the same time diminishing the air speed of the moving air  so that when it gets to you, it does not cool you.

Hunter 53091 Builder Deluxe 5-Blade Single Light Ceiling Fan with Brazilian Cherry/Stained Oak Blades and Piped Toffee Glass Light Bowl, 52-Inch, New Bronze
Hunter 53091 Builder Deluxe 5-Blade Single Light Ceiling Fan with Brazilian Cherry/Stained Oak Blades and Piped Toffee Glass Light Bowl, 52-Inch, New Bronze

There are many, many styles and configurations of ceiling fans, able to match the decor of just about any taste, from tropical, to modern, to industrial. The primary considerations are the features of the fan in question. Do you want a light or not? Do you want a remote control? (They are actually, very handy to have as, when you think about it, the fan is mounted way up there, and you are way down here, and the on-off chains are unsightly.) Also, the better brands are quieter and will last longer. Good brands include Hunter, MinkaAire, Emerson, and Casablanca.

Window / Floor / Desk Fans

Lasko 20 inch 3 Speed Box Fan
Lasko 20 inch 3 Speed Box Fan

Window fans are also a time honored means of ventilation. When the breezes outside aren’t quite cutting it, make your own! There is the traditional box fan, whirring away in the window, providing a handy “robot voice” for the imaginative child.  These work best when set up as exhaust fans (pointing out). They pull the air out of the house pulling fresh air in. If they are set up in a window that is higher up in the structure, with a window or vent closer to the floor open, then it exhausts the hot air out while pulling cooler air in, especially if used in the cooler, night time hours.

Rowenta Turbo Silence 4 Speed Pedestal Fan
Rowenta Turbo Silence 4 Speed Pedestal Fan

Pedestal fans are also useful, in that they are larger than desk fans, and therefore can move as much air as a similarly sized box fan, while having the rotating function of a desk fan. Unlike a box fan however, they are designed to provide direct cooling by blowing air across the occupants. The rotating allows the breeze to be shared.

Desk fans are like Pedestal fans, only sized to fit on a desk or counter. Being smaller, they don’t move as much air, and therefore are typically used for one person. They range from the cheap plastic types that you can pick up at Wal-mart, to high quality, well built ones designed to last a lifetime. You can find old ones from the early part of the century that are still running today from GE, Westinghouse, and Robbins & Myers.

Hunter 12 Inch Desk Fan
Hunter 12 Inch Desk Fan

A decent version is made by Hunter. But you can find similar ones from many manufacturers.

Ultimately, a fan is worth making room for in a tiny house, as its usefulness outweighs the space that it takes up. However, it is up to you to decide what style best matches your decor.

RV-style Roof Vent Fans

Whole House Fan DiagramThe RV Style roof vent fans work on the same principle as attic or whole house fans in a regular house.  Capitalizing on the concept of hot air rising, a attic fan pushes air from the inhabited space into the attic, forcing the hot air in the attic out through the eave vents. And as the optimum time to use one is at night when it is cooler outside, the forcing of air into the attic draws the cool, nighttime air into the living space through open windows.

Fan-Tastic Vent 5000RBTAn RV vent fan is designed to be mounted in the roof, through a square hole. They can be used in a tiny house, but as with all penetrations in the roof, you need to be extremely careful with sealing and flashing. I recommend checking out the website of your roofing material’s manufacturer for their recommended flashing and sealing details for skylights, as RV vent fans are technically the same, only smaller. Popular options for these fans are multi-speed motors, the ability to work in reverse, thermostats to control on/off functions, and even remote controls. The fan will have a hinged cover of typically smoked plastic that that is weather tight when closed.

Of course increasing ventilation is only effective to a point, as sometimes, it is just too humid, or too hot to matter. In those cases, most people consider an air conditioner a must.

Losing Our Cool by Stan Cox
Losing Our Cool by Stan Cox

However, there is an alternative stream of thought on the matter, in that some lay the increased rates of asthma and other respiratory ailments at the base of the prevalence of air conditioning in western society. For a thought provoking exploration of the topic, I highly recommend “Losing our Cool” by Stan Cox. As the blurb from Amazon states: Losing Our Cool shows how indoor climate control is colliding with an out-of-control outdoor climate. In America, energy consumed by home air-conditioning, and the resulting greenhouse emissions, have doubled in just over a decade.  it also makes a much more positive argument that loosening our attachment to refrigerated air could bring benefits to humans and the planet that go well beyond averting a climate crisis. Though it saves lives in heat waves, air-conditioning may also be altering our bodies’ sensitivity to heat; our rates of infection, allergy, asthma, and obesity; and even our sex drive. Air-conditioning has eroded social bonds and thwarted childhood adventure; it has transformed the ways we eat, sleep, travel, work, buy, relax, vote, and make both love and war. The final chapter surveys the many alternatives to conventional central air-conditioning. By reintroducing some traditional cooling methods, putting newly emerging technologies into practice, and getting beyond industrial definitions of comfort, we can make ourselves comfortable and keep the planet comfortable, too. 

Mr. Cox makes some very valid points in the book, However, even with the points brought up in the book, there are some discrepancies in Mr. Cox’s arguments as well, especially from an engineering standpoint. With his agricultural geneticist background, Mr. Cox is very well qualified to discuss the pitfalls of corporate food and medicine, but his knowledge of basic energy theory is a bit lacking.

He makes the very common error of confusing power and energy; A kilowatt is a measure of power (the rate at which energy is produced or used); a kilowatt-hour is a measure of energy (a means of measuring the work performed through the consumption of energy) and you cannot interchange the two.  A common analogy for watts and watt-hours is speed and distance. Speed is a rate of how fast you drive at an instant in time; distance is the length, or amount that you drive over a period of time. For example, if you drive at a constant rate of 60 miles per hour for one hour, then you will have traveled 60 miles. Similarly, if a 60 W light bulb is on for one hour, then that light bulb will have used 60 Wh of energy. If left on for two hours, then the 60 W light bulb will have used 120Wh of energy.

He also does not understand how the laws of thermodynamics as they relate to the refrigerant cycle of an air conditioner works, or the way that the electrical system in the U.S. works, confusing the efficiency of power generation at a central power plant as having anything to do with the efficiency of the refrigeration cycle itself.

One point that he does raise is very valid however, and that is that if you must condition the air in a space, it is better to condition a small volume (say the entirety of a tiny house), than to condition a large volume (such as a McMansion). So with that in mind, I will delve into some of the options available for conditioning the air through the use of active systems. (Which is a fancy way of saying, lets talk about air conditioners!)

Active Cooling

Air conditioners are rated in British Thermal Units or BTUs. A BTU is defined as the amount of heat energy needed to raise the temperature of 1 pound of water 1 degree Fahrenheit. For air conditioners, obviously, we are looking at how much heat can be removed by the unit, but the amount of heat energy is the same.

Many people buy an air conditioner that is too large, thinking it will provide better cooling because bigger is better! However, an over-sized air conditioner is actually less effective — and wastes energy at the same time. Air conditioners remove both heat and humidity from the air. If the unit is too large, it will cool the room quickly, but only remove some of the humidity. This leaves the room with a damp, clammy feeling. A properly sized unit will remove humidity effectively as it cools. Home Depot actually has a very good explanation of how to choose the right size for your room (or tiny house), which I recommend consulting prior to deciding what you need.

As an example, an 8 x 16 foot tiny house is 128 square feet, however as most tiny houses have a loft area in them, I recommend adding 20% bringing it up to 152 square feet. Using the rules of thumb presented at the link above, this points to us needing 5,000 BTUs, but as our example tiny house has a kitchen in it, we need to add 4,000 BTUs, and for each person other than ourselves, we will need to add another 400 BTUs. So, for our example, if it is inhabited by 2 people, we will want a unit that has 9,400 BTUs in capacity. However, if you plan to have your tiny house in a shaded location (highly recommended) you will need to deduct 10% from the total, reducing it to 8,460 BTUs. You can round up if need be, but I would caution not to get too far from the calculated amount, and would actually recommend going down slightly to 8,000 BTUs for our example.

Window Units

LG LW8014ER Energy Star 8000 BTU WIndow Unit
LG LW8014ER Energy Star 8,000 BTU Window Unit

The cheapest option for air conditioning is a window style unit. It is also the most popular, as it is the easiest way to retro-fit a house or building to add air conditioning when the house or built was built without it. As such, there are many styles and options available, and many levels of efficiency. As we all want to save money, I highly suggest that you get a unit that is Energy-Star Qualified. You can get them with digital controls and remote controls, and of course multi-speed fans. Of course, you will need to plan for a place to put the unit, so it will help to consider this in the planning stages.

Through wall, Hotel-Style Air Conditioners aka. Packaged Terminal Air Conditioners (PTAC)

Amana 8,000 BTU PTAC
Amana 8,000 BTU PTAC

Another option available to the tiny house inhabitant is that of a Packaged Terminal Air Conditioner or PTAC. You may have never hear of the name or acronym, but if you have stayed in a budget hotel over the past decade or two, you have undoubtedly used one. Designed to be a self contained unit that is mounted through the wall of the room typically beneath a window, these have the benefit of being a single packaged unit that includes a heat function. Although they were traditionally energy hogs, PTACs manufacturers have kept with the times and made them more efficient. The linked model from Amana also has the benefit of being made in America in a plant in Tennessee. PTACs require a wall sleeve to properly install them, so be sure to account for that if you go this route.

Roof Mounted, RV-style Air Conditioners

Dometic Brisk Air II 15,000 BTU AC with Heat (complete system)
Dometic Brisk Air II 15,000 BTU AC with Heat (complete system)

The RV market has come up with their solution, which is to mount the AC unit on the roof. Like a PTAC, they are self contained and can contain a heat function in addition to the cooling.  Because of the design of the compressor, they can only be mounted on a flat or mostly flat roof. If mounted at too much of an angle (greater than about 15 degrees), the compressor inside the unit will quickly burn out. Also, being designed for a RV application, they are designed for a roof cavity of 2.0 – 5.5 inches. They can be used with a small ductwork system to allow for air distribution, however the ductwork would need to be designed by a HVAC mechanical engineer for proper operation.

Mini-Split Systems

Ductless Mini Split Diagram
Ductless Mini Split Diagram

The final air conditioning solution I will cover is a solution that the U.S. is behind the rest of the world in adopting, that of the Mini-Split system. These are similar to a normal house sized split system, in that the mechanical workings of an air conditioner are split into two pieces, one designed to be installed inside the conditioned space (the Evaporator) while the other is to be mounted outside (Condenser), connected by refrigerant piping. The mini-splits are just, well, miniature versions of the full size, intended to cool (or heat) a single room rather than an entire house.

Pioneer 9,000 BTU 13 SEER Ductless Mini-Split AC with Heat
Pioneer 9,000 BTU 13 SEER Ductless Mini-Split AC with Heat

For tiny houses, some consideration must be made for mounting of the condenser on the outside of the tiny house, as well as a wall surface on the inside on which to mount the evaporator. Luckily, being smaller capacity, the two units are fairly small and compact, and the various manufacturers have designed their condensers to be wall mountable. As always, paying for a higher efficiency unit will be worth it, when you consider the energy savings over the life of the unit. The linked Pioneer unit is a good, well rated unit, typical of the category.

 

As you can see there are many  cooling options available for tiny houses, and the best solution for one person may not be the best for another. Although some of the units mentioned have heating capabilities, the focus has been on cooling. I will expand upon heating options in next Friday’s post.

Lasko 3723 20″ Premium Box Fan, White (Kitchen)


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Rowenta Fan, Oscillating Fan with Remote Control, Standing Fan, 4-Speed, Silver (Kitchen)


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Hunter Home Comfort Hunter Retro Table Fan, 12″, Brushed Nickel (Misc.)


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Fan-Tastic RV Roof Vent with 12V Fan & Thermostat – Manual Lift (Automotive)


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LG Electronics LW8014ER Energy Star 115-volt Window-Mounted Air Conditioner with Remote Control, 8000 BTU (Kitchen)


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AMANA PTH093G35AXXX AmanaDigi Smart Standard Heat Pump, 9,000 Btu, 208V (Tools & Home Improvement)


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Dometic Brisk Air II 15,000 BTU Rv Ac Complete ND System W/Heat


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